|Creation date||February 05, 2012|
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Described below are primarily related to the Chinese replicas, but we should bear in mind that AEG is a complex system and that changes in one part of the circuit has an impact on everyone else, so that usually is not enough to change just for example. spring to get a stable and accurate with a larger range coup … This text is set therefore to try to protect ourselves from unnecessary expenses and our AEG of fractures and faults. Another reason was to try to give some advice if you decide to upgrade.
• Spring – Basically, this section specifies ilaznu speed projectiles at the end of the tube and reach the final. Velocity is measured in fps [feet per secund] a range of mind [meter]. Finite range and is the most important thing, but the effective range is important.Stronger springs additionally burdened by a mechanism other parts of the gear box [hereinafter textu GB's] so often, to achieve the desired effect it is necessary to change the piston, cylinder, cylinder head, metal gear, lead spring and in extreme cases and if housing GB -a. Strong spring and requires a strong motor, which requires a greater [stronger] battery. The average Chinese AEG spring with a maximum of 110 mps [target per secund] works well with factory parts and providing a stable framework.
• Gasket and seal assembly – Stronger spring is not guarantee for more fps. Good rifle that has good seals and sealing it at the first service center for its factory condition often is not done perfect. Teflon tape, changing the o-ring or a nozzle may be required to achieve the desired effect.
• Hopup – Hopup and eraser are the ones that primarily determine the effective range of AEG. Rubber band should be chosen in relation to the fps should be good and hopup chamber has a good idea to seal. If there are fluctuations between shots of 20-30 fps, then the hopup otherwise affect the ball during firing, more or less gives the rotation, and the grouping of shots up. With arranging sealing using quality components, the oscillations can regulate the output speed 5 fps between shots, which is acceptable and gives a good grouping missile. Change hopup chamber is justified if it is alone or not disperse seals regularly. It is preferable to tighten the screws in dots for adjustment after adjustmenting!
• Engine – In line with the other elements of the GB, the engine is determined primarily ROF [rate of fire-shots per second]. Los engine trouble with the spring but this may be the fault batery. High quality engine does not exert itself and consumes less power, therefore batery will endure longer on a single charge. There are plenty of drive motors, or high-speed Normaline engines. The first slightly stronger overcomes the spring but is slower and the largest consumer, and the third gives the highest ROF but is anticipated for the weaker spring. Normal engine is calibrated to be a happy medium.
• Barrel – precision, grouping. Basic Chinese tubes are not the top but it's hard to say because there are many differences from batch to batch. JG at one time had a lot of defective pipes, while Cyma rules quite good! One pipe is not accurate mainly because it is less precise inner diameter, but it is perfectly right with perfectly polished inside of. One Tokyo Marui 6.08mm barrel is often as accurate as many fine 6.04mm diameter pipe. Barrel length is a guarantee of accuracy only up to a certain extent, beyond 350mm but does not play a role if it is not too well-adjusted volume of the cylinder with a capacity of pipes.
• Gears – lately AEG replicas are equipped with steel gears, but the Tokyo Marui replicas as you have made for less power, put the tub galvanic spiaterski, which over time are advised to be changed. In addition to standard sets are High Torque sets where the same engine will Pull and stronger spring just slower, and High Speed ??[For higher ROF] where the same engine speed will pull weaker spring. Helical gears have a geometry such that the teeth carve the larger surface, easier to carry more power, and the weaker springs are quieter.
• Batery – that is incorrectly called by us is a very important element of our guns. The larger capacity [mAh - milli ampere hours] gives greater autonomy [longer you play with it] as well as lower voltage drop When firing, due to the engine easier to turn. Higher voltage gives a higher ROF. I am a supporter Litihiumskih batteries as they are smaller and stronger, not Memorial effect, is last longer. If the Factory [typically 8.4 V 1200 mAh NiMH] put batery significantly greater capacity, it is expected that it will shutter more varniciti before the collapse. The cure for this is that the MOSFET ROF increased slightly and the response seems to be quick on the trigger.
• MOSFET switch relieves, no spark at the contact percent over them passes only signal current, a power MOSFET engine takes over. There is active, ie AB MOSFET which break the circuit and two MOSFETs. Its function is to stop as soon as the motor rotation when the switch is released. Active braking is done at the expense akumlatora. Besides, there are some where BURST electronics adjustable Modes, ROF, and something else ….
• Reliability – the more you play, the more I appreciate if my rifle is reliable and less important to me is the strength and range. Truim the hope that all parameters are within acceptable limits but the reliability is most important to me. High quality parts, the lower the burden on a strong spring, it's one of my recipe for my M4. Everyone I let him decide what is appropriate, acceptable and cost-effective …
I recommend that if you can afford, repairs and servicing to service personnel who have experience. Frequently occurring problems and difficulties that you experience and solve for the second inexperience into a breakdown and more damage …. a bag brought to the preparation of replicas more time. If you get rid of just doing the repair / overhaul of the well-prepared [youtube] and seek advice if you are stuck. Be patient! Enjoy!
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